Some excerpts from my old journals I

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At irregular intervals, I’ll find my stack of old journals and page through them to cringe at a younger, angstier version of myself. And I get exactly what I expect, largely, except for the occasional gushy passage, or resolution to be less angsty, or – and this I give you here – a one-liner or list that I cannot, for the life of me, remember having written and find inexplicably hilarious today. All appeared entirely without context in their original form, and I promise you I was sober for all of these:

  • How to be less neurotic:
    1. Write fairy tales
    2. Exercise
    3. Eat more fruit
    4. Do more actual work
    5. Read more fiction
    6. Be less guilty about everything
    7. Learn more about trees
  • Trying to invent the art of simultaneous dream interpretation. Complete with licorice dream cable?
  • Capable only of pickling peppers, which is really not very nice work at all.
  • Orange juice = 60’s. Grapefruit juice = 70’s.
  • Ich bin berrrrrrreit, but who knows what for.
  • Conclusions:
    • It is not possible to be bored!
    • Eating an egg is a profound experience!
  • I’m putting my courage to the sticking place with two-part epoxy. 

I was also delighted to find several references to Maddy, my partner-in-crime here on this blog, that were also steeped in mystery:

  • Madeleine remembers a sweater I used to wear that she found hideous and I found delightful. What was I doing that caused this future amnesia?
  • Madeleine, as always, understands completely and puts things somewhat in perspective. American men indeed.

Some portraits of archaeologists

Sometimes, when I am cleaning the bathtub and my hands are starting to get all dry and elephantine from the vinegar solution, or when I am doing my taxes, I think: the problem is that I was not a démi-mondaine in the Weimar Republic. Or a code-breaker during World War II (I am not meticulous or mathematically inclined enough to have been a code-breaker, but the nicest thing anyone has ever said to me is that they thought of me as having been at Bletchley Park). Or an archaeologist in the nineteenth century, even though their methods were scientifically appalling and they were practically pirates and the British Museum should give back the Elgin Marbles, etc.

Even so – I would have liked to discover Linear B.

I’m translating some excerpts from a children’s book about archaeology at the moment, and so have been looking at pictures of archaeologists. It’s very easy to romanticize such a life when you see all those waistcoats and think about how they were able to read Greek and Latin and tramp around Cairo and Knossos without needing to pack tampons or anything.

 

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Arthur Evans was “a married, middling archaeologist, puttering around the Ashmolean” until he uncovered the palace of Knossos and defined Linear A and Linear B. He is on his way to read you The Princess Bride.

 

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Flinders Petrie wanted everybody to stop excavating with sledgehammers and use toothbrushes instead, which was a v. good development, though I suspect his fastidiousness would have made him a difficult roommate.

 

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Hiram Bingham, led by indigenous guides, found Machu Picchu and successfully publicized it not only as the “Lost City,” but as the “Last Capital” of the Incas (apparently it was not). He will be played by Gwyneth Paltrow in the film.

 

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Giovanni Battista Belzoni was over six and a half feet tall and afraid of nothing. He found and transported back to England the bust of Rameses that inspired “Ozymandias”; his father was a barber and it showed.

 

Robert Koldewey

Robert Koldewey excavated ancient Babylon, including the Ishtar Gate and the Hanging Gardens (maybe), but worried the entire time that he’d left the stove on at home.

 

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Twentieth-century bonus!!: Thor Heyerdal of Kon-Tiki, who had the heart of a Viking and the chill of your Australian barista.

 

 

Things that everyone finds interesting about the nineteenth century* 

  1. Tuberculosis
  2. Opium dens (L. inexplicably disagrees)
  3. Grand Hotels and/or sanitaria
  4. Iron + glass, especially at World Exhibitions
  5. Smoke (including but not limited to: steam engines; Holmesian pipes; London fog; aforementioned opium dens)
  6. Ernest Shackleton (technically twentieth century, but he has a very fin-de-siècle aesthetic)
  7. Jugendstil / tasteful amounts of gold leaf (cf. the stupid eighteenth century)
  8. Men’s capes
  9. Seances / spirit photography
  10. Fern mania (pteridomania)
  11. Volcano tourism

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*to be updated as necessary

 

 

The Lone Survivor of an Earlier World

The best thing I did today was read this amazing article about octopuses:

Captive octopuses appear to be aware of their captivity; they adapt to it but also resist it. When they try to escape, which is often, they tend to wait for a moment they aren’t being watched. Octopuses have flooded laboratories by deliberately plugging valves in their tanks with their arms. At the University of Otago, an octopus short-circuited the electricity supply – by shooting jets of water at the aquarium lightbulbs – so often that it had to be released back into the wild. Jean Boal, a cephalopod researcher at Millersville University in Pennsylvania, reported feeding octopuses in a row of tanks with thawed squid, not an octopus’s favourite food. Returning to the first tank, Boal found that the octopus in it hadn’t eaten the squid, but was instead holding it out in its arm; watching Boal, it slowly made its way across the tank and shoved the squid down the drain. (The third-century Roman rhetorician Claudius Aelianus, a more sympathetic observer than Aristotle, identified the octopus’s main characteristic as ‘mischief and craft’.)

In the Hawaiian creation story, according to Dixon in The Mythology of All Races, the world perishes and is reborn again and again from its own ashes, its reincarnation witnessed only by the octopus:

There is here, however, no long series of antecedent, vaguely personified entities ranged in genealogical sequence, but the immediate appearance of living things. At first the lowly zoophytes and corals come into being, and these are followed by worms and shellfish, each type being declared to conquer and destroy its predecessor, a struggle for existence In which the strongest survive. Parallel with this evolution of animal forms, plant life begins on land and in the sea — at first with the algae, followed by seaweeds and rushes. As type follows type, the accumulating slime of their decay raises land above the waters, in which, as spectator of all, swims the octopus, the lone survivor of an earlier world.

I think this is very beautiful, not least given the actual octopus’s touchingly short life span (“Most species of octopus live for only a year or two; the Giant Pacific, the species that lives longest, dies after four years at most”). Were I ever to devote myself to something less human than literature, the octopus would be very high on my list, along with stars, trees, and birds of paradise.

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Pookh

Dear readers, forgive me! The cottonwood fairies have been holding me in their usual early summer trance, but now they are (mostly) gone and I can be a useful, semi-literate person again.

Can you blame me for simply absconding?

Starting in late May, the female cottonwoods in certain parts of Cologne explode with a volume of downy seeds that somehow always manages to exceed my wildest expectations. The air becomes so thick with the individual seeds (which I have known as fairies since I was little) that you cannot help but inhale a few as you stare at them dancing. I have asked more than one medical professional if my lungs are capable of dissolving the things. About a week into the spectacle, downy clumps begin accumulating everywhere. In the densest areas, the stuff is like snow. It finds its way indoors, too. Despite our best efforts to get a hold on the situation, the fairies congregate in every corner, behind every door, and on anything that might be construed as remotely fuzzy, including your own hair. They build vast civilizations under the bed.

For me, this is a kind of heaven, but the fluff is not universally beloved. I was waxing poetic about cottonwoods to a Russophile friend of mine, and she pointed out that Moscow, which is home to an estimated 300,000-400,000 cottonwoods, is practically buried in pookh (or pukh) every year. Although the Muscovite children delight in the stuff, particularly its extreme flammability, it is by and large viewed as a scourge. In some quarters, it is still known as “Stalin’s revenge,” as the man was supposedly particularly fond of the tree, although it is probably unfair to lay the blame solely on him.

I am willing to accept that pookh is not everyone’s cup of tea, but I remain enamored of the stuff and its sheer excessiveness. If I fail to turn up when I am supposed to, you’ll likely find me chasing the last stragglers through the park.

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The last remnants

Shadow plays

Summer at last! It was a dark winter, and the spring was so brief it hardly bears mentioning. Now that the sun is finally out, I have abandoned all useful activities, leaving the cooking to P., and spend the majority of my time, at least at a certain golden hour, watching the shadows in our kitchen.

An Ode to Taxidermies Both Great and Terrible

I have a soft spot for terrible taxidermy. It’s so earnest; it offers itself so humbly to us even when we know, and it knows, that it resembles no animal that has ever walked this earth. But I have done my best, the absent taxidermist seems to plead with every rough stitch on the animal’s side, through the cloudy gaze of its lopsided glass eyes. I have tried to show you a shark.

The best places to find terrible taxidermy are old or underfunded museums; Berlin’s Naturkundemuseum, for instance, houses the preserved form of Alexander von Humboldt’s loyal parrot, who accompanied him through the jungles of South America and whose stuffed form enjoyed a gregarious afterlife in Berlin, only to be torn nearly in two in a bombing raid in the Second World War. Half of the poor bird’s head is missing now, and its plumage on one side is singed away, but its under-feathers still shine stubbornly on, awkwardly glued to a pigeon-shaped pin cushion.

History has been a little kinder to the birds in Madeira’s natural history museum (which we visited in April); most of them still manage to look reasonably robust. But then there are the sharks:

 

 

 

And the cat:

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I think that I love bad taxidermy because I grew up with excellent taxidermy. The Denver Museum of Nature and Science, where my mother and brother and I spent half of our summers and a good chunk of our winters, has several large halls of dioramas representing all the world’s major ecosystems, and animals so lifelike that you almost expect to see a cloud of frozen breath hovering over the Arctic wolf’s nostrils. A mountain elk still seems to gaze at you from “across a narrow abyss of non-comprehension,” as John Berger said.

wolf diorama

As I child I once took a class about the dioramas; docents took us through the various silent habitats, pointing out particularly interesting elements and telling us a bit about how the specimens were prepared. In a classroom in the museum’s back hallways, my mother and I made a diorama of our own under the fierce supervision of a stuffed grizzly bear, reared up to his full seven- or eight-foot height.

A few years later, by chance, my father got to know the taxidermist responsible for many of these wonderful scenes. His name was Jack, and he had spent several decades traveling around the world, hunting and gathering wild flora and fauna for the museum’s collection. He was often accompanied by his wife Lila, a gorgeous opera singer who serenaded the tribes of the Kalahari during their stay in South Africa. My father took me with him to their house once. Jack was in his seventies or eighties by then, a surprisingly small, gentle man whose favorite animal was the duck.

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Jack’s living room was a dizzying exhibition of his best work. Flocks of birds shot towards the ceiling lamps in formation over the head of a mountain goat perched on the mantlepiece. A bobcat reached for its prey, every muscle in its back beautifully tensed, a magpie’s long tail feather just barely brushing its outstretched paw. In one corner stood the polar bear – its massive shoulder loomed a good foot above my own head – who had once charged Jack and his friend in the far north, and whom Jack had had to shoot at point-blank range. A room like that should be astoundingly creepy, but it was beautiful. The hours upon hours of love, respect, and meticulous craft Jack had poured into his specimens were evident in their bodies – and yet they were also immediately forgotten, for the artist disappeared into his every creation, and the walls of his home instead seemed to tremble with the souls of the beasts who could, at any minute, spring once again into motion.

The last time K. and I were in Chicago, we went to the Field Museum and learned about the apparent founder of artistic taxidermy, Carl Akeley. After an early career marked by the single-minded pursuit of the perfect stuffed creature and a surprising amount of drama, Akeley had his breakthrough in the late 1880s. He developed the use of armatures and the practice of hiding the seams on the sewn hides; after a trip to Africa in 1905, he caused a sensation with his work “The Fighting African Elephants,” still on view at the Field Museum:

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Around this time he also created a piece called “The Four Seasons,” which depicts a deer family not only in four different environments (complete with a supporting cast of snakes, rodents, and birds), but with their different winter and summer coats and antlers as well. “The Four Seasons” is universally referred to as “the Mona Lisa of taxidermy.”

Right across from this paragon of the art, however, the Field Museum also displays a tiny, dejected relic of a less ambitious time – and Jack forgive me, but I just love it:

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In praise of rhubarb

Americans know rhubarb primarily as a companion to the strawberry, as if the plump red fruits were there to babysit the tart, fleshy, decidedly vegetable stalks. But European children eat the pink-tinged petioles unabashedly raw, dipped in sugar (only not too much, as the oxalic acid they contain is nephrotoxic at certain levels). As adults, the Germans I know spoke with such nostalgia about it that I was forced at some point to replicate the experience myself. If there is anything more redolent of spring, it has yet to cross my tongue.

I only recently learned that rhubarb is, like so many things I thought were indelibly western, initially from the East, likely brought along the Silk Road. The word itself comes from the Greek rha barbaron, meaning “foreign rhubarb,” and in many of its forms, especially the German Rhabarber, it cannot seem to shake its association with the supposed barbarians who must have first cultivated it. Nor do I think anyone wants it to – what would the world come to if rhubarb became a polite fruit? No, I prefer the rude, giant stalks that refuse to fit neatly in our refrigerator, with a sourness that will not be subdued by even the most civilized cake.*

If you are not overly attached to the crunch of fresh rhubarb, or simply want to extend the plant past its brief season, I cannot recommend rhubarb jam highly enough. It is stupidly easy to make, and it is not spoiled at all if you sword-fight a bit with the stalks beforehand. My version is with ginger, but you can also leave it out if you’re not that kind of barbarian.

Rhubarbarian jam (with ginger)

Ingredients:

  • Rhubarb (however much you like, as fresh as possible)
  • The equivalent weight in jelly sugar (or normal sugar with the appropriate amount of pectin)
  • Ginger root (a piece at least the size of your thumb)

Instructions:

  1. Roughly chop the rhubarb into half-inch chunks, weigh them, and dump them into your jam pot.
  2. Add the equivalent weight in jelly sugar and as much grated ginger root as you deem wise.
  3. Stir, cover the pot, and let it sit overnight.
  4. The next day, bring the mixture to boil over medium heat and simmer for 4 minutes. Ladle it into freshly sterilized jars. If you have any common sense, you’ll smear the leftover bits in the pot on some buttered bread.

 

* Much like compound nouns in German, which are equally unwieldy and delightful. This parallel is exploited to excellent effect in a famous runaway tongue-twister.